Many birds and small animals are not native to Australia and not naturally equipped to deal with the blistering summer heatwaves. At the height of summer, the best option, especially for small animals is to offer them sanctuary inside under controlled temperatures. For birds in an aviary, this may not be an option, so here are some tips to help you get your pets through those sweltering summer days.
Temperatures over 28°c may cause heat stress. Preferred or safe temperatures for small animals are roughly 16-24°c
DANGER ZONE: PETS IN DISTRESS!
Animals stressed by the heat will often behave differently than normal. They may lose their balance, collapse or appear lethargic and stressed. Below are some tell tale signs that your pet will display when it is distressed. It’s essential for you be able to identify these signs, and to know what to do if you see them, but the main thing to remember is that heat stress can set in quickly and you must seek veterinary attention immediately.
During summer, if inside the house is not an option for pets then access to full shade, cool water and electrolytes is essential.
You may have to move your pet’s cage during the day to ensure they have access to shade all day long. Even a few minutes in full sun can be enough to kill on hot days!
Shade cloth is a simple and effective means of reducing temperatures.
If using metal cages keep in mind they retain the heat and your pet will not be able to keep cool.
A misting system can be a tremendous help, and on average will reduce the temperature by about 10 degrees. Make sure you place it somewhere your pet can get cool, but still leaving enough dry area to get away from the mist if they want to.
Cool clean water is essential. Cool being the operative word. Adding a block of ice to water containers and freezing water bottles can help. If using bowls for water, then try to use deeper bowls rather than wide shallow bowls as water will stay cooler for longer. Adding a little bit of Spark Liquid to the water ensures your pet stays hydrated and recharged.
HEAT STRESS AND LIFESAVING ELECTRO – WHATS??
Cooling your pet down is only half the battle. The other half is trying to keep their body chemistry normal. Without getting really complicated, when animals or people get hot, changes begin taking place within the body that can lead to heat stress. These changes are centered around electrolytes and the loss of these all important components of the body due to dehydration.
All animals have electrolytes including humans. They are essential for cells and organs to function normally.
So making electrolytes available to our pets becomes a really important and lifesaving factor. You can use Spark Liquid for this job. Simply add it to your animal’s clean cool water, and you will support your pets with the final piece of equipment they need to deal with the burning inferno that is our beloved Australian summer.
If you rescue an animal suffering from heat stress and dehydration, wrap it loosely in a towel, place in a cardboard box and offer water to drink. Spraying with a fine mist of water can help to cool it down. Leave it in a dark, cool and quiet place and contact your local wildlife organisation. Be sure to record the location of where the animal was found so that it can be returned to the area if it recovers.
A wild lorikeet has to work for its food, flying from tree to tree and foraging for a large portion of their day. Our pet lorikeets on the other hand, only have to hop over to their feed bowl. In addition, while wild diets do contain sugar, they do not contain sugars that humans have chemically refined – so why are we feeding our pet birds that do comparatively little exercise, a diet brimming with refined sugar? Because our birds love the taste and refined sugar is cheap!
BETTER FOOD NATURALLY!
When formulating a new lorikeet diet, Vetafarm’s nutritionists took a different approach. By avoiding processed foods, by-products and refined sugars, we developed Forest Fusion. A far cry from the traditional refined sugar and breadcrumb mixes of the past, Forest Fusion contains wholesome low GI ingredients as a base, along with Australian bee pollen, real fruits, vitamins, minerals and organic acids.
Forest Fusion does NOT contain refined sugars, instead it is flavoured with the natural sweetness of real dates and blueberry extract.
WILL MY LORIKEET LIKE FOREST FUSION?
Vetafarm have used real dates, Eucalyptus bee pollen and blueberry extract to achieve a sweet food without the need for refined sugar. However, some lorikeets have developed what can only be considered an addiction to refined sugar. These birds may need to be converted onto Forest Fusion gradually – but it is certainly achievable!
Converting your Lorikeet onto a low sugar diet
Converting a Lorikeet from a food high in refined sugar, to a formula that contains much less, or no refined sugar is simple. However some birds may need some time and patience on your behalf. Vetafarm has a number of great foods and while we are focused specifically on Forest Fusion in this article, this technique will work for any of our Lorikeet diets.
WHERE TO START?
First offer Forest Fusion in a separate bowl along with your bird’s regular formula and simply observe their response. Most Lorikeets will investigate a new food and try it first. Many will readily consume Forest Fusion without delay. If this is the case with your Lorikeet, simply change to the new formula and your job is done!
If you observe some head flicking, this usually translates to “what is that taste in my mouth!”. It doesn’t mean the conversion has failed, just that the taste and texture is very different to your birds previous high sugar diet. Give them a day with the formula to give it a decent try.
After tasting Forest Fusion, if your bird decides that they’re sticking to their old high sugar diet we need to take the next step in the conversion process.
Conversion tip! Try offering some wet Forest Fusion from your hand or on a favourite treat.
Mix 75% of the old diet with 25% new diet and place the mix in the bird’s regular food bowl. You can do this wet or dry, depending on how you usually feed your bird. Over the next 5 days, when preparing food gradually decrease the old formula and increase the amount of Forest Fusion by about 10% each day.
By day 5, 75% of the mix should be Forest Fusion. If your bird is eating this mix happily, then try straight Forest Fusion the following day. Be sure you still make fruit and vegetables available throughout the conversion process.
Conversion tip! New foods can be easier to introduce as a wet mix, rather than a dry powder.
Remember to monitor your bird throughout the process until you are confident they are happily eating your new Vetafarm formula.
With a little patience and perseverance, even the fussiest sugar addict can be swayed to a low sugar Vetafarm diet. Then it’s just a matter of sitting back and enjoying the good times with your feathered friend.
Watch our videos below for more information!
I’ve been framed
Mice and rats were once feared as dirty disease carrying vermin. For years people blamed the “Dark Ages” on rats carrying the bubonic plague. We now know we can blame the fleas, vindicating rats and mice from their poor reputations. (You just can’t enter a petshop without watching these endearing little acrobats play around in their cages. Luckily, taking care of one (or a few) is just as easy and fun as watching them play).
Rats or Mice?
Choosing between a mouse and a rat can be hard. The care of each is similar, but rats will need much larger cages. As mice can squeeze through holes smaller than a 5 cent piece, it’s ideal to pick a cage that is glass or plastic and has been built specifically for housing them. It’s also best to pick a cage that will house a few animals as rats and mice are very social. Rats in particular are known to get depressed when kept alone! Rats are known to “laugh” when happy, tickle each other and use peer pressure on other rats, as they don’t want to be left out of the group.
Clean Freaks & Little Stinkers
Rats are generally cleaner than mice and will allocate a section of their cage for food, a section for waste and a section for sleeping. Mice are messier, creating up to 50-75 droppings a day! Mice also use their urine to mark their favourite “trails” and release micro-droppings of urine constantly as they walk about, so their cages must be cleaned frequently.
Rats and mice love to play and should be given lots of attention from their human companion. After taking them home, start by gently offering the new pet some treats. Once they are comfortable taking treats from the hand, they can then be gently petted, before moving onto gentle handling and cuddling. Speaking to them in a calm soothing voice will also get them used to their new human friend. Rats especially love to climb and are very curious, so they adapt well to being a pampered pet.
Rats adapted to tackle challenges, they developed hooked claws to aid in climbing and a tail that can grip objects. Their bodies are shaped to survive in almost any climate, and they can find their way across any surface. They also use their paws to manipulate items. Rats are capable swimmers, can jump distances of nearly 1.5m and cannot sweat! They regulate their body temperature through their long tail. Rats are able to survive drops of over 1m and can go up to 14 days without food. Rats can also go without water longer than a camel.
Mice eat about 15-20 times a day and rats learn form an early age what they should and shouldn’t eat. Rats are usually more suspicious of new food sources and tend to sample small amounts of food to test the effects it has on their digestive system. Mice and rats are “concentrate selectors”. This means that they will pick the fattiest and tastiest foods from their bowls first. It’s best to choose a quality pellet diet as it is consistently the same. Meaning long term nutritional deficiencies are not caused by this natural rodent tendency. They should also be given a wide variety of healthy fruits and vegetables. Peas, broccoli, carrots and apples are some of their favourites.
For optimal health in rats and mice look no further! Vetafarm’s Rodent Origins doesn’t deliver second rate nutrition, this diet is purpose built using natural whole ingredients and is cooked to perfection delivering the best rodent diet ever.
There are a variety of feeding spoons and syringes on the market and there is no right or wrong choice when it comes to feeding equipment for hand rearing. However you need to make sure the product is safe and that it’s the right size for your bird. Some feeding equipment, like crop needles, require experience as they can be used incorrectly which can result in heartache! Every option has its pro’s and con’s, but to make the choice easier, we have given you the low down below!
Crop needles speed up the task of feeding young birds tremendously, they cut down waste, make feeding at the right temperature easier and ensure more accurate volumes of feed are delivered. Crop needles even eliminate the ugly dried crust of food that accumulates around a birds beak from spoon or syringe feeding. HOWEVER it is only recommended that you attempt using a crop needle if you are familiar and confident with the technique, as they require some experience and know how to be used safely and correctly. If you would like to find out more about how to crop needle, check out our You Tube video, or consult with your local veterinarian.
Baby birds can also be syringe fed directly into the mouth without any attachments at all. Again, while this is quite messy and does take some time, bonding can be better with the birds. Many breeders employ this method, however there is an increased risk of birds inhaling food if they are fed too quickly. Standard disposable syringes can be used and the ‘Basik’ brand is by far the best choice in this area. Reusable, perspex feeding syringes are also available from Vetafarm. These can attach to crop needles and the Ezy Feeder or be used for direct feeding. These reusable syringes have the advantage of being easier to handle, easier to clean and obviously as the name states, they are reusable!
The Ezy Feeder was designed by veterinarian Dr Tony Gestier and is used in a similar manner as the feeding spoon. The Ezy Feeder is a stainless steel spoon with a tube attachment that connects to a syringe. The Ezy Feeder offers the advantages of using a syringe with the simplicity of the spoon. Ezy Feeders allow for accurate, low mess feeding and the ability to keep food warm for the duration of the feed. A great compromise for those that want a better system than the standard feeding spoon but don’t have the technical expertise required to handle a crop needle.
Many people believe that a closer bond is built between bird and person using this method. Which makes sense due to the extend amounts of time you will be spending with the babies during feeding. Although time consuming, feeding spoons are very easy to use. Vetafarm has a simple feeding spoon for those who need a low tech feeding system.
Raising babies from day 1
Hand raising babies from day one is grueling, time consuming and all in all, quite a difficult task. Don’t be fooled into thinking that it is just like raising babies from pin feather stage, this thinking will give you dead babies and a broken heart. The word neonate refers to a baby that is in absolute infancy and is completely dependent on it’s parents. There are three core problems that we need to address when dealing with neonates before we look at anything else, overcoming these are the key to success.
Neonates do not have a functioning immune system – full stop. Essentially the neonate is at the complete mercy of any bacteria that enters the gut as they have very limited defense systems. Deaths from bacterial infections at neonate stage are extremely common and can occur as quickly as 24 hours after the baby is exposed to the bacteria. Treatment is really difficult with babies of this age, as antibiotics still rely on the body’s immune system to gain the upper hand. Prevention however, is very effective and simple – good hygiene practices and common sense are all that is required. Using a poorly cleaned feeding utensil that has been used on older babies is one sure way to introduce a bacteria that could potentially wipe out every neonate in your brooder. Be smart and fastidious with your hygiene and if you really need to use the same feeding utensils for a range of babies of different ages, disinfect thoroughly and feed your neonates BEFORE your older babies.
A complex way of saying that neonates cannot control their body temperature. Much like a premature baby, neonatal birds are absolutely reliant on their environment to be both the right temperature and the right humidity. Too cold and a neonate will become hypothermic, too hot or too dry and they will dehydrate, too wet and they will absorb too much moisture – the result of any one of these imbalances can be death. Humidity and temperature are controlled by your brooder, if you cannot afford a brooder or do not have a brooder, do not attempt to raise neonates. Where you will get away with a cardboard box and a light bulb with some birds at pinfeather stage, you won’t get anywhere when raising babies 3 days old or younger, they simply rely too heavily on the correct environmental conditions and these CANNOT be achieved without spending money. The ideal conditions and a good starting point for neonates is a brooder temperature of about 38-39°C.
After the ordeal of actually hatching from the egg, many neonates are fatigued and more importantly, dehydrated. It is important to get two things correct when dealing with dehydration. Brooder humidity is absolutely crucial and again, a good quality brooder is essential here. The ideal brooder humidity for most species is about 70% relative humidity. The second important step to preventing/combating dehydration will be covered in the next section.
Foods and fluids from Day 1
Once the 3 core principals covered above are taken care of, the next matter that requires attention is food and fluids. Getting the correct food and fluids into a neonatal baby in the first 7 days and in particular, the first 24hrs is imperative.
Once the neonate has finished hatching and is clear of the egg, the biggest danger we have is dehydration. Actual food is not a concern at this stage as the baby continues to feed on the remnants of the internal yolk sac. A “starter solution” of 20ml Spark Liquid mixed with 1lt distilled or boiled water, along with 5g of Probotic should be mixed and fed drop-wise (1-2 drops) via syringe to the beak every 2-3 hours until the first dropping (the meconium) is passed. This solution will supply everything the bird needs in the first 24 hours while the digestive system begins to function. Although some may disagree, Vetafarm do not feel overnight feeds are necessary, even at this age. Simply administer your last feed at 10-11pm and then the first feed of the day at 5-6am. Note: It is important that the “starter solution” be fed at the same temperature as the brooder, 39°C.
Now the meconium has been passed we should be through the first 24 hours of life and it is time to very slowly introduce solids. This last statement can be misleading as we initially start the process by making a “Neocare Tea” rather than a solid food. The “Neocare Tea” is made by adding approx 5g of Neocare in 100ml of the “starter solution” mentioned above, mixing thoroughly with a fork and leaving to stand for 15 minutes. We then simply use a syringe to suck a small amount of the “Tea” off the top of this concoction and feed very small amounts (start with as little as 0.1ml and progress up to 0.5ml over a two day period) by syringe warmed to 39 °C every 2-3 hours as above.
After day 3 we can very gradually start to thicken our “Neocare Tea” over a further 3 day period until we reach “normal” consistency. We no longer need to wait for 15 minutes to extract the liquid from the very top of the formula and can now leave our mix stand for 3-4 minutes and feed as required. The same rules for food temperature apply to the thicker formula, however after day 7, plain distilled or boiled water can be used in place of the “starter solution”. Remember to always mix your formula with a fork to ensure an even consistency and allow to stand for at least 3 minutes to allow full absorption of water into the food and correct feeding consistency to be achieved. At day 7, we should be feeding a formula at a normal consistency. This consistency will be continued up until the point the bird is weaned. The best way to measure the correct formula consistency at this point through to weaning is to pick up a small amount with your mixing fork. If the formula just drips through the prongs you are spot on!
Good luck and happy hatching!
Lizards make fantastic pets and one of the draw cards for many people is that keeping them in captivity is easy. Or is it?
Let’s start with the two most popular species of lizards kept in captivity- Blue Tongue lizards and Bearded Dragons. Both of these reptiles make great pet choices, however people are often misinformed about the best diet for these lizards when kept as pets.
METABOLIC BONE DISEASE (MBD)
Lizards being fed an incorrect diet can develop serious health problems, the most common being Metabolic Bone Disease. MBD is not new; it has been around for many years in the reptile world and is commonly thought of as a calcium deficiency. However, research in the last 5 years has shown that a lack of calcium is not the only cause of MBD in reptiles. In fact the causes for MBD are complex and multi-factorial – though imbalances in the diet remain THE major contributing factor.
- Inability to stand and move properly
- Tremors and muscle twitching
- Soft jaw and tooth disease
- Leg, spine and tail twists and bends
- Fractures and broken bones
- Eventually weight loss and death
It is important to keep in mind that these symptoms are caused by an incorrect diet, lack of adequate care and exercise. The only way to treat and prevent MBD in lizards is to get these few simple things right. It is actually quite easy to provide a balanced diet for lizards. It needs to contain vitamins, minerals, calcium, fat, protein and amino acids. BUT most importantly of all, the diet needs to be balanced.
NOM NOM OMNIVORES
Both blue tongues and bearded dragons are classed as OMNIVORES. They eat a variety of different foods including both insects, meat matter, and fruit and vegetables. Blue tongues are classified as opportunistic omnivores. They will generally eat most things they come across, with a favourite being snails! This can become a problem in captivity, because they will usually eat just about anything that goes into their food bowls, even if it is not particularly good for them – snails all day every day? Yep, they will take the opportunity!
Bearded Dragons are also omnivores, but they tend to have a diet higher in protein when they are younger, which gradually changes to a diet higher in vegetation and fibre as they reach maturity. Bearded dragons also develop problems in a captive environment, as they simply LOVE live food and many people find it easier just to feed them what they like – not necessarily the best thing for the animal!
FORMULATED DIET OR SUPPLEMENTED LIVE FOOD
There are two main options for providing your lizard with a balanced diet that will ensure they remain in peak health – without breaking your bank or your patience.
We believe the easiest way to achieve this is to use a formulated diet, like Vetafarm’s Lizard Food. Being made with fresh Australian ingredients with essential vitamins, minerals and amino acids in perfect balance, Lizard Food is suitable for both Blue Tongues and Bearded Dragons.
If you prefer to feed a live food diet, it MUST be supplemented. Crickets and meal worms are high in fat and protein, with differing amounts of chiton (exo skeleton) depending on the type and age
of the insect fed. Chiton does not contain any nutrition. While fat and protein are important for rapid growth without the addition of vitamins, minerals and calcium problems arise as a reptiles bones struggle to develop at the same pace as the rest of the body’s tissues and organs.
This makes supplementing a live food diet absolutely critical if we are to avoid deformities and other health issues caused by MBD.
There are two ways you can supplement a live food diet- either by gut load or dusting. Vetafarm prefers dusting as opposed to gut loading as it can be difficult to ensure the insects have eaten enough gut load to be beneficial. Vetafarm’s Multical Dust is a great dusting product to use, as it is the world’s first all in one powder, containing vitamins, minerals and calcium. In our opinion, live food should be dusted EVERY feed or at least every second feed.
Check out our video below for a quick demonstration on how easy it is to dust live food. It is super simple!
Whichever way you decide to feed your lizard, it is also important to provide fresh fruit and vegetables as part of the daily diet. Adult Bearded Dragons in particular rely on daily access to fruit and vegetables, being prone to obesity issues caused by high fat, high protein diets once they have finished growing.
Leafy Dark greens and red vegetables usually contain the most nutrition, so it’s a good idea to use these as the bulk of your mix. A small amount of Multical Dust can also be used in a sprinkle over vegetables.
Nutrition plays a major part in MBD in reptiles, however lighting and husbandry are important as well. Be sure you research the particular tank and lighting requirements for your lizard. You can also read our article “Keeping a Baby Bearded Dragon” which explains a basic tank setup.
If you walk into any store that sells food for rabbits and guinea pigs, you will probably find shelves full of grain, hay and muesli mixes. Often these foods are labelled as rabbit AND guinea pig foods, but many people do not realise that rabbits and guinea pigs, although both herbivores, have very different dietary requirements. Therefore, mixes that claim to cater for both species are just not suitable and can lead to dental disorders, incorrect bone development (for growing animals) and digestive malfunctions!
What you need to know about hay:
Hay should be fresh and available 24/7. There are many different types of hay and they all have a purpose. It is important to know what to feed, and when to feed your pet.
Rough, high fibre hay is great for maintaining teeth and encourages natural behaviour like foraging and chewing. High fibre hay is also critical for a healthy and functional digestive system. Fibre Rich Fescue replicates the type of food rabbits eat naturally.
We recommend Fresh Cut Lucerne for guinea pigs as it is higher in protein and calcium than fescue. Lucerne is also more suitable for growing animals, pregnant or lactating mothers and those animals with a medical requirement for higher protein.
What you need to know about pellets:
Quality pellets that are specifically made for guinea pigs or rabbits, like Rabbit and Cavy Origins, are important in every stage of your pet’s life. Pellets should only make up 20% of the diet and overfeeding pellets in both rabbits and guinea pigs can lead to obesity and other medical conditions.
Lastly, but most importantly:
Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. Vetafarm recommends sanitizing water containers, food bowls and hutches. They should be cleaned and then sprayed with a disinfectant, like Vetafarm Hutch Clean at least once a week.
Worms. A word that should send shivers down the spine of ANY bird keeper. Getting rid of or better yet preventing worms in birds is really easy. You just need to have the right information.
So let’s cut straight to it.
What birds can get worms?
There are many opinions on this topic and we’ve heard them all. Things like “cement floors will prevent worm infestations in aviaries” and “if you only have one bird it can’t get worms”. Wrong. While there are measures that reduce the risk of worm infestation, there still remains some risk. While some species of birds and environmental factors reduce risk. The fact is if it has a gut, it can get worms, no exceptions.
So how does a bird end up with worms?
It occurs very easily. Round Worm eggs are spread through the droppings of birds already carrying a worm burden. Worm eggs shed into the environment are incredibly tough. They require 14 days in the environment before they become infective and can then remain infective in the right circumstances for years afterwards, simply waiting for a new host to infect. Birds usually ingest worm eggs while foraging in an infected area, but there is always the chance that the infected area will be brought to them, in the form of branches, feather or dropping dust, wild birds or even a new cage mate. These parasites are experts of infiltration.
So why should you care about worms?
Well, different worms cause different issues. If your bird has made contact and ingested Roundworm eggs, they quickly hatch, the emerging larvae taking a tour of the bird’s body, actually moving through the tissue on their way to the birds gut. Sounds traumatic right? Well, in large numbers it can be.
But you see the real problem caused by Roundworms happens when the larvae reach the gut and then mature into adults. At this point, each worm becomes an egg producing factory sucking up nutrients that your bird needs and increasing in numbers as the life cycle continues now your birds are in serious trouble.
What are symptoms of worms?
It’s a tricky thing to know what to look for if your bird has worms. Birds can carry a large number of worms in their stomach without showing any outward symptoms. Then in the right conditions, for example, your bird becomes stressed; this existing large worm population can explode in numbers causing immediate implications and even death. Some of the symptoms that are common with worms with birds include weight loss, poor feather condition, lethargy, sleepiness and ruffled feathers. In breeding birds you may also see a reduced activity particularly in the egg production. Adults carrying worms also pose a risk to their developing babies. The big problem is that these symptoms are not specific to just worms and the majority of them occur when the birds are very sick, with just about any disease. Waiting to treat worms until you see these signs a very bad idea.
How do we stop a worm infestation?
The only way is to establish a regular worming schedule. Vetafarm recommends that all birds, whether they are breeders or pets, inside or outside birds, are wormed four times a year. Prevention is key to stopping worm infestations. Some people find it easy to remember by worming at the start of every season, this ensures you are up to date with your worming treatments.
Worm infestations in young birds are a real issue and cause a large number of deaths every year. Bird breeders need to be especially vigilant with their worming schedules. Worming just before breeding season and again after the chicks fledge is absolutely crucial. It is much easier to worm adult birds before breeding season than to run the risk of baby birds picking up worms and then trying to treat the problem.
Now we have the background story on worms and we have a schedule to control them, we need to make a decision on which wormer to use. There are many worming treatments available on the market so it’s really important to choose a product that is going to treat all types of worms in your birds and just as importantly is safe.
You need to pay attention to your active ingredients in your selected wormer. Piperazine is safe as a bank but is an old remedy and many worms are now resistant. This should not be your first choice. Levamisol is another option and is very effective, however overdoses are common and this active can be toxic. Ivermectin is often touted as the perfect wormer but there are downsides. Ivermectin does not treat tapeworm and is very unstable in water. This means once added to water Ivermectin immediately begins breaking down and its ability to actually do the job becomes questionable. When treating worms you don’t want questionable, you want a sure fire solution. Vetafarm recommends using Wormout Gel to worm all types of birds. The active ingredients are Praziquantel and Oxfendazole, both have been proven to be safe at up to ten times the recommended does rate. It will treat and prevent all types of worms and can be administered either in water or via a crop needle and either method is safe and effective.
If you choose to treat in water, here are a few tips to help you get the job done right:
• Avoid medicating on generally cold days and damp days. A bird’s water intake will generally be less on days like these and birds will drink water off the wire of their cages before touching medicated water. Likewise, avoid medicating on extremely hot days as a bird’s water intake can be double or triple what it would usually be.
• Worming solutions can be quite bitter and often birds will refuse to drink medicated water adding a small amount of orange juice to sweeten the water will often help with these fussy drinkers.
• Also make sure you remove all other types of water and wet food whilst medicating. Birds will choose to eat things like fruit or sprouts to get moisture rather than drink their medication.
Measuring the medication is really easy – 1 pump is equal to 1ml. We recommend using a jar with a secure lid for mixing Wormout Gel as this provides a much faster way to achieve an evenly mixed solution. So two pumps of Wormout Gel into 160ml of water, pop on the lid and shake well. All these directions are also on the reverse of the product label. If you’re adding orange juice, just remember to supplement 40mls of water with your 40mls of juice.
You need to provide the medicated water for 2 days and replace with fresh solution every 24 hours. We find it much easier to make up two days worth of medication, use half on the first day and put the other half in the fridge to be changed out on the second day. You will need to ensure that it’s mixed through properly as the gel will settle to the bottom of the container after a period of time.
While anyone can treat worms using Wormout Gel in water, it is also designed for direct administration using a medication or crop needle in birds in emergencies or in any circumstance that a bird’s water consumption is in question.
It is only recommended that you attempt this if you are familiar and confident with the technique of using a crop or medication needle. If you would like to find out more about how to crop needle, check out our You Tube video, or consult with your local veterinarian.
Worms must be taken seriously. If left untreated, there is a significant chance of death in your birds. Australian natives, and in particular princess parrots, are especially at risk but exotics are also susceptible. Keep on top of your worming schedule and you will have healthy and worm- free birds.
H2O Soluble Product Matrix
This is a product matrix displaying Vetafarm’s range of water soluble products. It simply shows which products can be mixed together within the same drinking water. To use the matrix select the product you are using from the first column on the left. Follow the row along until it intersects with the second product you wish to use.
If the box has a TICK then you can safely use both the products in the same drinking water. If CROSS then do not mix the products.
* These products contain very similar ingredients it is not necessary to use them together.